GONDORO LA: HIGH ROUTE TO K2
Pakistan
led by Ian Wade
9 July - 5 August 2006
(local agent Baltistan Tours)
Day 1 Fly to Islamabad from London Heathrow courtesy of Pakistan International Airways; meet fellow trekker Graham ("The Spruce") at Heathrow
Day 2 Transfer to Hotel Margala, Islamabad - very hot and humid; meet other fellow trekkers Chris (Aus) & Josh (US) who had already arrived
Day 3 Fly to Skardu, but cannot land because of cloud; fly back and start to drive instead along the Karakoram Highway (KKH "the 8th wonder of the world")
Day 4 Continue to drive along the KKH, past the junction of Himalayas, Hindu Kush and Karakoram, along the Indus and Shyok rivers
Lunch at Skardu and drive on to Khaplu; stay night at Karakoram Lodge
Day 5 Visit Raja Palace in Khaplu (being restored by the Aga Khan Foundation) in the morning
Drive to Hushe in the afternoon
Day 6 First acclimatisation walk up Honboro Valley (first signs of AMS); UN personnel come for a walk (based at Skardu); visit Hushe school in the afternoon
Day 7 Trek to Brumbrammel, past this mosque; Ahmed was our excellent local guide
Day 8 Walk to Masherbrum base camp and back to Brumbrammel (see third picture - Nabi shows us a snow leopard trap)
Note: the BBC filmed the snow leopard in the Baltoro Glacier in their excellent Planet Earth series and entered via Askole
Day 9 Return to Hushe; visit Zahir's house (cook); read Michael Palin's book "Himalaya" - very interesting as he visited Skardu and Concordia for the television series
Day 10 Start main trek from Hushe to Saitcho (37 staff today); pass K2 climbers returning from a failed attempt; music and dancing in the evening
Day 11 Acclimatisation walk up Charakusa Valley and back to Saitcho; make cheesecake; more music and dancing
Day 12 Trek to Dalsan
Day 13 Trek to Gondoro Peak base camp; see ice 'mushrooms' and stunning views of Laila Peak
Day 14 Trek to Gondoro La base camp; practice using fixed ropes and equipment for Gondoro La tomorrow; Zahir unwell and has to return to Skardu - Nabi takes over as cook
Day 15 Leave camp at 1am to go over Gondoro La pass (first picture sent to Trail magazine!), down Vigne Glacier to Ali camp - very hard work but the views make it all worthwhile at the top (including four 8000m peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II)
Day 16 Walk to Concordia - superb surroundings
Click here for videoclip of 360o panoramic view at Concordia on YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoZJMfawNRU).
Army helicopter arrived on a scenic tour just as I happened to be photographing - flattened all the tents; lunch with a view!
Day 17 Rest day - great view of K2 and Angel Peak; miss out on walk to Broad Peak base camp and K2 base camp because of sunstroke
Day 18 Walk up the Upper Baltoro Glacier and back to Concordia - great views to Windy Gap and Golden Throne at the top of the Upper Baltoro Glacier
Josh's 'birthday', celebrated with a special meal of soup, goat, birthday cake and mangos
Day 19 Start to walk down Baltoro Glacier to Schachspong (Gore 1), lunch at Gore 2
Day 20 Walk to Horbose via Urdukas; great views of Cathedral Peak and Trango Towers - very hot
Day 21 Walk to Paiju; cross the Baltoro Glacier and pass its end; meet 21 trekkers with Spirit of Adventure, Devon commemorating the 20th anniversary of Julie Tullis's death on K2 (her audio diary recently found on a glacier was aired on BBC radio 4 on 10 August It's My Story: Mother's Mountain; the trip is being reported on later in the year)
Day 22 Walk to Jola; difficult river crossing; Zahir better and meets us at Jola
Day 23 Walk through Askole to Thongal as road is washed out (see fourth picture); 5th picture shows the porters who were with us at the end
Day 24 Rest day; Ahmed takes us to the hot springs - bliss!
Day 25 Drive to Skardu with several incidents - including a bridge washed out and a puncture; stay at K2 Motel where we meet Simon Yates of "Touching the Void" fame and see the Italian K2 exhibition; fourth picture shows Manzoor, Ali. Ahmed, Ian, Nabi & Zahir
Day 26 Fly to Islamabad
Day 27 Visit Heritage Museum in morning and spend the afternoon in Rawalpindi (haircut and shave at barbers, and tea at the Pearl Continental)
Day 28 Fly back to London Heathrow